June 10, 20201 found this helpful
Best Answer
This will probably be a very slow process unless you are used to doing refinishing work.
I cannot tell from your pictures if the wood on the top is starting to separate but if that is the case you may have to talk to a professional about doing that repair.
I do not believe you can just clean the wood and expect it to look good or to be safe for very long as it looks like the top is pretty rough.
You'll have to decide if you wish to refurbish just the top or the complete chest but the first step will be to sand whatever you decide needs to be done.
After that decision then you'll have to decide if you are going to sand it be hand or if you will use a hand sanding machine.
There are certain steps to follow next but you will need detailed instructions for that and since there are several ways to do this it would be best if you looked at some videos and read several articles.
These will also let you know what type of job you will be undertaking as that is the first decision - can I do it/do I want to do it?
www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how...
westmagnoliacharm.com/.../
homeguides.sfgate.com/easy-steps-refinish-cedar-chest-91954...
June 16, 20200 found this helpful
Thank you for the more thorough answer. It is helpful for making a decision as to how much work I want to put into this hope chest. My layperson's eye says the wood on top in NOT starting to separate. I know major restoration is beyond my skills. I am looking for a product/process to protect and "freshen", as opposed to a re-do. I appreciate the links and the input.
June 16, 20200 found this helpful
From a linked source at the end of the sf gate article:
Furniture Polishes
There are several factors to weigh when deciding to use polishes and waxes on furniture and other wooden objects. One critical factor is that the ingredients in commercial polishes and cleaning products are rarely disclosed. Moreover, these ingredients can be, and frequently are, changed without warning or notification. These ingredients may be harmless or harmful to the furniture (and to you) and you have no way of knowing in advance.
Polishing products are available in three forms: aerosol (spray); liquid; and semisolid. Here is a quick look at their benefits and drawbacks.
Aerosols (Spray Polishes)
Aerosols are convenient. However, they have been among the worst offenders in introducing silicone oils and other contaminants onto furniture. In addition, they may contain solvents that attack
varnishes and lacquers. While some of the "dusting" aerosols appear to be benign when applied to a cloth and not the piece of furniture, the result is similar to using a damp, clean dust cloth.
Liquids
Like aerosols, liquid polishes are easy to use. There are two primary forms of commercial liquid products for "furniture care": emulsion cleaner or polishes and "oil type" polishes. Emulsion polishes are waxes, oils, detergents, organic solvents, and other materials suspended in water for ease of application. These products can be extremely powerful cleaners that leave a desirable sheen on the surface. However, the visual effect usually diminishes as the liquid dries. Moreover, like aerosols, emulsion polishes can introduce contaminants onto the furniture, but because they are liquids they place much more volume than sprays on the furniture surface.
Oil polishes are even more troublesome. Much like emulsion polishes, oil polishes can be a complex blend of ingredients
including oils, waxes, perfumes, colorants, "cleaners," and organic solvents. They can render extremely pleasing surfaces and are used frequently as final finishes by themselves. However, oils used as polishes or cleaners can be very damaging.
Nondrying oils (paraffin, mineral, and "lemon oil," which is usually mineral oil with colorants and perfumes added) tend to be more benign than drying oils, but even so some oil remains as a liquid on (or in) the object. Dust and other airborne contaminants readily stick to wet surfaces, especially oils. But nondrying oils don't undergo chemical reactions or directly damage the furniture.
Drying oils, on the other hand, such as linseed, tung, or walnut oil, are a different matter altogether. These materials solidify, or "dry" through a chemical reaction with the air called oxidation. Over time this reaction makes them increasingly difficult to remove. Their permanence is fine if the oil is employed as the finish, but not good if it is used as a maintenance polish. By itself, having a polish that is difficult to remove would be an irritating but not an insurmountable problem. Unfortunately, as drying oils age they tend to yellow and in the presence of acids they are chromogenic (become Colored), turning a dark, muddy brown or opaque black.
Traditionally, cleaning and polishing concoctions comprised of linseed oil, turpentine, beeswax, and vinegar (acetic acid) were widely used even in the museum field until recently. They turned out to be a disaster waiting to happen. The results of their use are
readily apparent to even the casual observer: a thick incrustation of chocolate-colored goo that is neither hard enough to be durable nor soft enough to wipe off easily. The furniture is left with an unsightly coating that is very difficult to remove without damaging the underlying surface.
Semisolids
By virtually any measure semisolid polishes are the least damaging to wooden objects. Frequently called "paste waxes," these products are actually a very concentrated solution of waxes. Provided the ingredients do not include undesirable contaminants like silicone or high concentrations of damaging organic solvents such as alcohol, xylene, or toluene, paste waxes are an excellent polish for the surfaces of most wooden objects. Because waxes are exceedingly stable and don't cause many of the problems inherent in the previously mentioned polishes, they are the material of choice for furniture conservators and other caretakers of furniture and wooden objects. But paste waxes have their faults too: unfortunately, they require the most active contact with the surface of the furniture, and also need the most physical labor for proper application. Buffing out a wax polish can be very hard work, and in general, the better quality the wax, the harder the buffing that is
needed. However, the results and benefits to the furniture are worth the extra effort.
Fortunately, as the most durable and stable polishing material, paste wax needs to be applied much less often than aerosols or liquids. Ideally, wax polishing should be conducted no more than twice a year for areas of extremely heavy wear (desktops, chair arms, etc.) and once every three or four years for table and chair legs, cabinets, and similar areas.
If a surface can no longer be buffed to the sheen appropriate for a waxed surface, it is likely that the wax has worn off. In that case, apply another light coat of wax to the affected area in accordance with the product instructions. Wax that is applied too frequently or improperly can build-up and cause an unsightly surface. When the wax is used correctly, however, the solvent content of the new wax will "clean off" any previous wax remaining on the surface and will simply integrate the old into the new.
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This is a Lane cedar chest from mid-century. The wood of the lid is unfinished, unvarnished, bare wood. The tag inside says it is walnut. The lid is getting more dried out and has some watermarks in places. There are 2 pics that are close ups of the wood lid (outside). The sideways one is of the lip of the lid and side. What is the best way to care for and clean this family heirloom so it will last?
