Wood is lovely, but at times it does not age well, or exposure makes the veneer or varnish suffer needlessly.
This guide can help you revive that nice dresser or nightstand, not so that it regains its monetary value as much as that it still looks attractive in your home.
Total Time: 30 minutes to one hour
Supplies:
Related Product:
Steps:
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thanks for this tutorial! i have some of those markers but was uncertain how they were used. it certainly looks like they make the furniture look MUCH better!
I did exactly what you did with the exception of the vinegar solution, this was many years ago when we had kids staying with us and they spilled liquid, I was unaware until I removed the dresser scarf that was on the top. It still looks great. Glad you can pass on your tips to someone else.
I have the markers as well. Don't use them unless you have a tiny scratch . The colors do not match well and looks crappy.
awesome! you can use varish as well to have the wood last longer. its like coating!
awesome! you can add varnish like a coating for extra wood strength!
I recently purchased a lovely antique wood dining table and used the oil and vinegar on it. I was pleasantly surprised to see how nice it turned out!
Is there a vinegar smell and does it last long?
Its not going on Antiques Roadshow. Give them a break, they were trying to help. I like it because I sell used furniture. This will definitely help me make them look better.
This is yet another example of someone giving out wrong information about "restoring" furniture. Used motor oil has a beautiful golden brown color, it does not mean you should rub it all over your furniture, either.OLIVE OIL, COCONUT OIL, SAFFLOWER OIL,MINERAL OIL, ANY NON DRYING OILS, DO NOT BELONG ON FURNITURE. If you rub oil into wood you are CONTAMINATING IT and rendering it unsuitable for actual, proven, proper restoration techniques developed over hundreds of years by people who actually know what they're doing!
So can you tell us what you do use? That would be helpful. Ive used beeswax before on a Victorian dressing table. Ive used a Matt Varnish on a beautiful walnut desktop. Super pleased with both projects. Would love you to edify us.
That is quite true being in restoration for 50+ years there are natural products that work and do not have excess oil that continue to weep from wood. Letting it dry in warm temps and sun is helpful too.
Maybe you shouldnt fight the misinformation then and people will do what they do and in time they will hopefully learn by trial and error.
If this were mine, I would just sand down the top finishing with 220 girt. Then minwax wood conditioner and then stain it with a stain color close to original. Then 2 coats poly.
It's Cherry, which responds to refinishing very well, but it should be stripped, not sanded. Stripping this top would take less than 10 minutes, then after drying it should be sanded lightly with 120-220 grit paper..
The top need to be stripped and refinished with a stain that closely matches the rest of the piece, then finished with 2 coats of polyurethane. There are no shortcuts to fixing problems like this.
Please, please, please share your expertise about the proper way to restore damaged wood surfaces. I have an entire upstairs full of my Grandparents and Great-Grandparents absolutely gorgeous furniture, all with small to nearly catastrophic damage. I am completely unwilling to just let it go, but I cannot afford to pay someone to restore it. I know the near catastrophic damage will likely need to be stripped to bare wood and refinished, but what can I do to repair the smaller damages? Please help! I want so much to learn the correct methods so that this gorgeous furniture will last another 100+ years! (Especially the amazing Art Deco bedroom set with inlaid designs of different woods!! I have loved it since I was a child and am still completely enamored!) Most of the small damage is scratching. Most of the bad damage is water damage from a hole in the roof (now repaired) that was there several years while my Grandparents were far too elderly to climb the stairs and check on everything. They were so vigilant for so many years, but the ravages of time attacked my Grandparents, their house, and the upstairs furniture. I want to reverse that damage before the ravages of time catch up with me any further! Thank you for your time!
Id just like to say to the furniture restorer (who, incidentally shared no knowledge whatsoever) that there are ways of conveying your opinion without being demeaning and rude.
I fully agree! First of all, Id strip the top,at least. Stain to match, let dry a day. Use sanding sealer, let dry, lightly sand with 220, dust, apply two finish coats of varnish, or compatible polyurethane. Light sanding and dust between.
Hire a professional with at least 4 years training and necessary qualifications.
WOW.I think you could been a little less aggressive in your post. Not everyone can afford a professional refinisher.
But, heythanks for the info.
Is it possible to find a furniture restorer who will only refinish the top of a dresser. I have an Ethan Allen dresser (maple with walnut finish) that is worn the on only one corner. The rest of the dresser is fine.
Oh my --There is nothing worse than ruining a beautiful antique with polyurethane!! PLEASE don't use this -it looks cheap and plastic-like and is as un-authentic as it gets. Please use either: Varnish. Paste wax (like Johnson's paste wax) Shellac, or Mohawk's Spray Lacquer. Tung oil is another choice if that is a look you prefer. Any of these will give a beautiful sophisticated proper-looking finish
I just wanted to thank you for sharing this information. I have often used lemon juice or vinegar with olive oil, unaware that it could cause so many issues! Never again!
I might skip the minwax but definitely sand and refinish I do it everyday
I found a hand carved sofa and chair at a garage sale. The sofa had been used by a man who worked on cars in the garage and was crusted with black stuff. I planned to reupholster but before that I wanted to get the crud off and didn't want to strip the finish because it had a nice patina. I tried all kinds of kind and gentle cleaning products for wood to no avail and finally used the hand cleaner Gojo in the orange bottle thinking it wouldn't be too drying and it gets crud off of men's hands right? It worked beautifully and didn't hurt the natural coloring of the wood! I used a marker for some damage that was there on a small spot like you did. I followed with tung oil which completely restored a nice satin antique finish! Tung oil is my preferred to go to - I hate polyurethane - tung oil is more forgiving to work with, you can work on a section at a time and it goes quickly because you coat brief wait then buff off excess, it is easier for work on carved surfaces like the sofa and chair. The sofa and chair are in my living room and look great after more than 20 years since I rescued them! After having a cat jump onto the last coat of polyurethane on an antique piece that went deep into the prior coats requiring me to start over - never again!
There are (shortcuts) in todays world (where many people cant AFFORD to do it right!)
AMAZING! Gonna try it!!!
Thanks for this information. I have purchased the pens about 4 months ago, they are still standing in a box in my living room, awaiting me to repair my coffee table. I also purchased Scratch cover for medium wood, which is purchased from Wilko in UK, instead of olive oil and vinegar.
I am now ready to go.
Will they work on vinyl kitchen flooring which has become due to unfortunate bangs over the years?
I guess there is no harm in trying, it can only improve, not do further damage?
Thank you for sharing this with us. I'm going to try it on my coffee table!
For the love of Bob. Use oil that is meant to go on furniture, not a salad.
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