My Revere Ware has sufficient build up of burnt food on the OUTSIDE (sides and bottom) of the pots and pans. There is advice on cleaning the INSIDE not the OUTSIDE - I'm considering using a Magic Eraser but I'm wondering about the copper bottom as well. Would be interested in detailed information. Thanks so much!
Add your voice! Click below to answer. ThriftyFun is powered by your wisdom!
Try soaking the pots in a sink or dish pan in hot water and powder dish washer detergent, about 1 cup to a sink full. What works on the inside will probably work on the outside. Soak overnight, then scrub.
I'm not sure if this will help you, but my mother taught me how to clean and brighten copper bottoms of our Revere Ware pots and pans.
Wet the copper bottom and sprinkle vinegar (any kind) on it. Then sprinkle regular salt on top of the vinegar and scrub with a sponge. The chemical reaction of the vinegar and salt removes tarnish from the bottom.
Maybe this will help, I hope.
Good luck!
Smoochie :)
Didnt work that well. It did shine the bottom of the pan that wasnt totally ingrained. Mine has a medium brown color ingrained all around the copper finish. I have a 7 in. Revere Ware frying pan that makes the best scrambled eggs.
Barkeeper's Friend!
The original BKF is too abrasive for the copper; I do not recommend it. They make several products; check their web site and/or contact the company for what you can use that won't hurt the vintage copper.
I've had to do a lot of this lately.
First, do a thorough cleaning with Bar Keepers Friend-- on the stainless steel and the copper. Don't spend a lot of time on the copper because that's Step 2.
Before anyone says: "Yikes! Sandpaper? Are you kidding me?"
I heard this tip on a cooking show on a San Francisco radio station. And it really works well, without scratching the copper. I was amazed myself!
I have the solution to your problem, this will work on the copper bottom & the inside that was burned from water, milk etcetera. My husband is a body work man fixing & painting cars. When he paints cars afterwards, he has to wet sand & buff the paint to get out imperfections. He uses a 1000 grit or 1,500 grit sandpaper, it's really fine grain. I use it on the inside & the outside of my Revereware pans. You have to let a slow flow of water run on it the whole time you are scrubbing. It does not scratch the pans because it's such a fine grain of sandpaper. I promise you, it will not scratch & they come out looking brand new.
You have to remember to run a trickle of water over it as your scrubbing. You are wet sanding the burnt stuff & film off the pan. If it works on car paint without scratching, it will work on your pans. I have been using this method for 20 years now with perfect looking pans. You can get the sandpaper at the hardware or automotive store, ask for 1000 grit to 1,500 wet dry sandpaper. It doesn't take much scrubbing either.
I promise you will never go back to any other way again after using this method.
I just posted about the sandpaper too,when people think of sandpaper they think of the rough stuff.There is a sandpaper out there that is 1000 grit and 1,500 grit,you have to get the right type.It's called wet/dry 1000 grit sandpaper,it's the type used to wet sand and buff out imperfection in the paint after a car is painted.I use this method and I promise you it does not scratch your pans.You have to REMEMBER to run a trickle flow of water over the pan as your wet sanding it.It's more like a rubbing method but it WILL NOT SCRATCH YOUR PANS.If it does than you have used the wrong grit,it has to be 1000 grit or 1,500 wet/dry sandpaper,it is a very very fine sandpaper grit.Once you use this method you will never bother with others again,it works on the inside and the outside of the pan.
What about enameled - painted - pans? I have a vintage Dansk enameled pan that, after BKF, is no longer smooth and shiny - a cloth "drags" over the finish, which looks kind of splotchy and somewhat pitted. Lightly wet sand with 1500? (PS - we're very familiar with it, as we've done amateur body work on our everyday vehicles, and also have some antique show cars; we leave major paint work to the pros, but have done some small fixes.) I'm thinking either that or a very mildly abrasive rubbing compound we got from McGuires for removing water spots.)
I just picked up a set of Revere Ware copper bottom pots at a yard sale...for $1.00! I cleaned them all up bright and shiny with the same stuff I use on my brass bathroom sink, Cameo copper, brass and porcelain cleaner which costs about $1.25 at my local grocery store.
I haven't tried it yet but I was thinking of using Bon Ami to clean the stainless steel outside of my ancient family heirloom Revere Ware teakettle before using a high-temperature high-strength epoxy to reattach the small barrel nut formerly attached to the teakettle (since the 1960s!) which holds the handle in place from the bottom with a small Phillips head screw inserted through the top.
I actually took my teakettle to a guy who does welding and he said that he wouldn't try spot welding as I'd advised by someone else because it could cause the teakettle to explode. Don't want that!
I also have a car door handle on my rear passenger side door that broke yesterday. I can still open the door by reaching through the front door and using the interior handle of the rear door, but I'm going to try the same J-B Weld product on that because why not? It's a nice clean break in which a big chunk of the plastic handle snapped off after "only" 16 years of UV exposure, mostly in the Deep South. If it holds together so as to actually function in the future, great. And if it doesn't, oh well.
In case anyone's interested, the product is J-B Weld Original Cold-Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy, which set me back $8.99 + tax at our local Ace Hardware. They say on the packaging that its tensile strength is 5,020 PSI, and that it can withstand temperatures up to 550° F. when fully cured.
I've obviously gotten a bit off topic but maybe my discussion will help someone else. I simply want to get the surface of my teakettle good and clean so the epoxy will actually work to secure the barrel nut. If Bon Ami doesn't work I'll try the fine gauge sandpaper recommended here. I think I may even have some on hand!
Add your voice! Click below to answer. ThriftyFun is powered by your wisdom!
