I just finished spraying my bathroom counter with the Rustoleum Accents yesterday and let it dry overnight and all day. Then I put polycrylic on and used a sponge brush. The paint started to smear and half of the counter has light black streaking. Should I continue with poly or resand and repaint. I guess I am not sure how to apply the poly. Help please!
Sandra from Earlville, NY
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Hi Sandra - There is a great message board on this site called painting laminate countertops: www.thriftyfun.com/
I know what you are going through though. I used the rustoleum spray on my counters and ended up accidentally smearing some before it was dry. What I did was let it dry thoroughly and lightly sanded that area and sprayed it again. (a little thicker in that one spot and then a little spray out to the sides to help it blend) You can't even tell on my counters.
I was using envirotex to cover mine not poly-acrylic. So if you think that the smearing has anything to do with the poly go to the above mentioned message board and ask some ?'s I know there is a lady on there who used rust-oleum spray and did poly on the top and hers looks great! Maybe she can give you some tips.. I think her screen name is Shannon430.
I really hope this helps!
-Sharee
Have to use acrylic paint under the poly or it will dissolve regular paint giving it a smeared look.
I painted my bathroom counters , first primed with a coat of water based kilz then a oil based kilz. Painted it then put a coat of polyurathane on it. Then I was told to use polycrylic. Can I put that on TOP of polyurathane? To seal it good?
you can apply Polycrylic with a rag (or I used a flat cheapy sponge) in a circular motion. This works great for a bubble-free finish.
Your photo looks like the surface is sort of rough/bumpy, not smooth like glass. Is this correct? I have tried every way suggested and after finally getting rid of bubbles, I am left with rough, though even bumps. Thanks
I tried several ways to get a smooth glass like look with polycrylic, from a sponge roller for countertops, disposable sponge brush, synthetic and natural bristle brush and what finally worked for me was a soft rag from old jammies I cut up. It was easy to apply a smooth thin coat and it dried fast. I put a fan on it and could sand in 2 hours. After 3 to 4 coats I had a nice hard surface. I used white appliance paint because the rustoleum counter paint I tested left a horrible smell for 3 days. The appliance paint was easier to work with and left a hard finish like you would find on a stove. I'm happy with it.
Darn wish I would have read this first. So going to sand because of brush marks and try this method.
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I have finished priming and painting (marbelizing) a laminate bathroom counter using acrylic paints. I'm now having difficulty getting a smooth finish with the polycrylic (Minwax). The sponge roller leaves bubbles and bumps. After sanding, I tried applying it with a soft brush, but it leaves brushstrokes. Thin coats and heavier coats have the same result. Any suggestions?
By B.A.
I painted my kitchen counter with special countertop paint. I then sealed it with water-based urethane. After the first coat of urethane dried, I sprayed water on it and hand sanded. I have a total of three coats, wet-sanding after each one. Very smooth finish.
Hope this helps!
I used acrylic paint on my cubards they are all hand painted my original idea did not look like I wanted.. it has turned into wat more time then I ever thought. Old home, I don't own it but I'm free to do as I please. so the cheaper upgrade is what I did. I wish I took before pictures. I had the same issue of smearing when polycrylic was applied. i ended up using the polycrylic spray first, after it dried i used polyacrylic with zero issue