I'm looking for information on how to clean pet urine from memory foam.
By allison from Portland, ME
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Our cats also peed on our mattress and also on our memory foam and this is how I successfully removed all of the odor and stain from them:
Buy some enzyme based pet stain and odor remover. Like "Out!" or "OutRight Veterinary Strength Pet Stain & Odor Remover". They sell them at Walmart, Target & all pet stores.
* The enzyme-based pet cleaners work by actually speeding up the natural biodegradation process and permanently removing stains and odors. (This is a quote from the back of my enzyme-based pet cleaner.)
Directions:
1) First soak up any urine by placing a towel on the bottom and top of the foam then roll and squeeze it as the foam is sandwiched between the foam. But if the urine is already dry, then omit this step and continue to step 2.
2) Place a piece of plastic or an unfolded garbage bag under the Memory Foam then saturate this foam with the enzyme-based pet cleaner and odor remover, then cover the top of the foam with another piece of plastic to keep the area wet (this works for memory foam, mattresses, carpeting with foam rug-pads and upholstered furniture as well).
The products good bacteria and enzymes in the cleaner only work while it's wet, so keep the cleaner on the Memory Foam wet for at least 1 day or overnight. To be sure all the urine is gone, you can repeat this process after first squeezing out the first batch of cleaner into clean, dry towels.
After a day or 2 of the Foam being wet, sandwich the foam between 2 light-colored towels and squeeze out as much of the cleaner as you can and the foam let air dry.
* No need to rinse, the enzymes have now "eaten up" the stain and odor. If you really want to rinse, use peroxide or the vinegar-water formula shown below in place of water.
3) As an additional step, you can also pour peroxide directly into the foam (with plastic placed under it). Do not use the peroxide before the enzyme cleaner because the peroxide will kill the good bacteria and enzymes that make the cleaner work. Only use peroxide AFTER you have let the enzyme-based cleaner sit for several days and it's done working.
* If you catch them right away, you can remove small urine stains and odors, by using 1 part white vinegar mixed with 4 parts of water. But for stubborn organic stains, use an Enzyme-based Pet cleaner or Hydrogen Peroxide!
The above cleaners (Enzyme cleaners and Peroxide) work to easily clean all organic stains including pee, poop, blood, hairballs, red wine, grape juice and most natural foods like coffee and hot chocolate. (they do NOT work on foods with dyes like Jell-O, kool-aid & soda-pop with artificial colors added). Just spray on the peroxide, then wait for 15 minutes or more and repeat. On carpeting and rugs I also use an old toothbrush to get the cleaner deep into the rug, then blot with a paper or regular towel.
My Personal Experiences:
* Enzyme Cleaners: The enzyme-based cleaners are so amazing! One day I found a BIG nasty dried-on hairball my cat had left days before in a corner of my wall-to-wall carpeting so I liberally sprayed some of the enzyme cleaner on to the mess to soak. (I used the brand called "Out!") I planned to come back in 15 or 20 minutes to finish cleaning up the mess but I got sidetracked and totally forgot about it until my boyfriend asked me the next day if I had cleaned up the cat's mess, so I went over to the spot where the mess had been and planned to finish my cleaning, but there was nothing there! That enzyme pet cleaner had removed every bit of that dried-on hairball! Ever since then I have been sold on these wonderful enzyme pet cleaners.
* Perioxide: Before we put our house on the market to sell, I had to clean the rugs after renters had lived there. There were big spots of hot chocolate, mocha and coffee all over the carpeting. These spots had been there for years. I put some Peroxide into a small well-marked spray bottle and sprayed the peroxide directly on to the food stains then left it to sit for about 15 minutes, then came back and used a toothbrush on the stain, then sprayed or poured on a little more peroxide. After it set for another 10 or 15 minutes I came back & blotted-up the peroxide with an absorbent cloth. (no rinsing necessary!) I was totally amazed that each & every one of these hot chocolate, chai and coffee stains came completely out of the carpeting even though these stains were YEARS old!! The old carpeting ended up looking like it was brand new! (Really!) Ever since then I have used Peroxide to remove food stains and dried-on blood. You won't be disappointed!
* Never use anything hot on a stain (like a blow dryer, clothes dryer, iron or even hot water) because the heat will "set" the stain and make it much harder to remove!
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